Category: Automotive & Housing

  • The Yankee Drill

    The Yankee Drill

    yankee
    A Yankee drill — also known as a Yankee Screwdriver or a Push-Drill — is not only a must-have for every man  who owns a tool box, but is also one of the best kept secrets of hand tools.

    I say this with some amount of verifiable data because when we had our fire a few years ago, the Yankee Drill was the one item that kept flummoxing the Liberty Insurance computers when it was trying to establish a replacement value.

    A what kind of drill?

    The Yankee Drill has been around since the mid 1800’s and is one of the earliest forms of hand held drills. It is a mechanical tool — it looks like a long stick with a handle on one end that has a rotating end that is flat but when you set it against a flat surface and press against it, the drill rotates in the shaft and into the surface.

    Now you won’t see commercials about Yankee Drills. There will not be huge displays at Lowes, it won’t be a NASCAR sponsor and your neighbor won’t ask you to come over and look at his new Yankee drill that he just got.

    Why? Because there’s nothing really sexy about them and they’ve been around forever.

    Which is the second reason you need to have one. Because it’s simple, time tested, reliable and will last you a lifetime — unless you burn your house down — and will also save you an enormous amount of time.

    But if I have a cordless drill, why would you need a 150 year old hand held drill?

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    Great question. And here is one answer. Pilot holes.

    Picture this. You are putting up a set of vertical blinds — I’m using this as an example because I hate putting up vertical blinds.

    So here is the normal process.

    1. You place the little white boxes where you need them on the wall.
    2. You mark the holes with a pencil.
    3. You take your cordless drill and place in a drill bit.
    4. You drill the pilot holes in the pencil marks.
    5. You replace the drill bit with the screwdriver bit.
    6. You use the cordless screwdriver to screw in the hardware.

    or …

    1.  You place the little white boxes where you need them on the wall.

    2. You take your Yankee Drill and drill in pilot holes — skipping the pencil step.

    3. You take your cordless screwdriver and screw in the screws.

    Done.

    Think of every time you need to drill a pilot hole — and every time you try to screw in something without a pilot hole because you don’t feel like changing the bit on your cordless drill again and spend ten minutes trying to get the screw to bite into the wood on its own. And now take the Yankee Drill; light, easy to push and bam. Instant pilot hole.

    Now you can use your Yankee Drill for standard drilling as well and it is great for areas that the cordless can’t fit in or if you just don’t feel like dragging it out. But just in drilling pilot holes alone, this gem will pay for itself the first few times you use it and you’ll end up using it more than you think.

    Yankee drills are usually easier to find online than they are in hardware stores — Sears has them on their online store but I have yet to find one in an actual Sears store. They come with double fluted bits — which work differently than the modern twist because it cuts as you push and they clears as you release — and will run you about thirty bucks.

    You won’t regret getting one of these.

  • How to use a soldering iron

    How to use a soldering iron

    soldering

    Soldering irons maintain an interesting place in the male world. Mention the fact that you own one and you may be asked what wattage the iron is or what operating temperature it runs at. Mention it to others and you may get the same reaction saved for discussions on stump grinders or engine diagnostic meters — yes, those things exist and I’m sure they are used by perfectly nice people but I prefer to buy my food from a grocery store and to leave my electronics alone, thank you very much.

    But the truth is that there are several good reasons to own a soldering iron and in having a basic knowledge of using one  — which is all you really need — and the first reason is that it will save you money.

    Almost everything we own or use has some sort of a Printed Circuit Board in it — from toys, to coffeemakers, to exercise bikes, to toaster-ovens. If it has a display or even an on/off switch, it most likely it contains some kind of small PC board. And when these items fail, it’s often due to a loose wire or faulty lead which can easily be repaired with an inexpensive weld.

    The second reason is that there is this, well, inert value in fixing something. It’s true. It’s built in our man DNA. When we can take our kids broken remote control car — lifeless and dead — and come up from the basement with the wheels turning and us smelling of flux and solder, it’s the same as throwing the musk oxen into the cave fire. This isn’t a cheap thrill, it’s not a false sense of accomplishment, but a well-deserved triumph.

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    And the third reason is that in our throw it away quick and go buy another one society, we are losing the skills of using a soldering iron — oh sure an electronics guy or someone who repairs ham radios as a hobby can use one, but the average homeowner cannot.

    What’s ironic about this is that our fathers and grandfathers — whose world contained a fraction of the lights and beeps and switches that ours do — owned a soldering iron and knew how to use it. What was different back then was when something broke, you fixed it. And only when you couldn’t fix it — and when your friends or your brother-in-law couldn’t help you fix it — did you buy a new one. In those days having to buy a new one was not a sign of success but one of defeat.

    In our world — where owning a two year old cell phone is a sign that they may be foreclosing on your home — buying a replacement when something breaks is the norm.  But a large part of being a man is that ability to be self-reliant; to take care of you and yours. And being able to fix something when it breaks gives you the option of buying something new because you want to, not because you have to.

     

    HOW TO USE A SOLDERING IRON.

     

    DEFINITIONS:

    Soldering iron — a soldering iron is a tool with a metal tip that gets very hot — up to 800 degrees Fahrenheit. You touch the tip on solder and it melts. That’s it. Like anything prices vary but for the once-in-a-while use a $30 soldering iron will probably do you good for years.

    Solder — solder is a silvery metal thread that is made of metal alloys and contains a high content of lead. What the solder does is melt and holds individual components or wire together.

    Flux — flux is a peanut buttery type substance that gets rid of oxidation and helps clean the surfaces of the solder.

     

    SAFETY:

    The number one fear of using a soldering iron is that you’ll damage the equipment you are working on. But the actual concern should be getting burned —- as mentioned, that tip get up to 800 degrees so take precautions and wear safety glasses and keep all loose fitting clothes and hair away.

     

    1. Prepare a work space. Lay down a mat or piece of cardboard over your bench — anything that will catch any loose solder.
    2. Warm your soldering iron.
    3. Clean your soldering iron. Because soldering irons get so hot, they oxidize and become dirty quickly. They key to reliable connections is clean components so make sure that your soldering tip and parts you are joining are clean. So heat the tip up and wipe it into a wet sponge — most soldering irons come with one — until the tip is shiny.
    4. Tin. This seems a little ironic, but right after you clean the tip, you get it dirty again. Apply a thin layer of solder to the tip — this is called ‘tinning’— which allows the heat transfer from the tip to the solder.
    5. Apply flux. Flux melts at a temperature lower than solder so that the solder can do its job.
    6. Solder. Using two hands — one hand holding the rolled out solder and the other holding the soldering iron — hold the iron like a pen — place the solder end on the board where you want it and place the tip on top of it. For one or two seconds. Then remove the solder but leave the tip there for an additional second.
    7. Inspect. You want a shiny even joint. If it isn’t what you want feed more solder and do it again. Or if you made a mistake, remove the old solder completely — just place the tip on it until it melts and start over.

    So rescue some piece of electronics that beyond repair from the trash and remove the PC board. Take it down to your workbench and just spend some time desoldering the welds and pulling the various components off — even solder a few back on. By the time you’re done, you’ll be a pro.

    And your grandfather would be proud.

  • How to build a Hobo Stove

    How to build a Hobo Stove

    hobo

    If you are under the age of eighty, then you — like most of us — have not lived through a true worldwide economic depression. Oh, we have all seen economic challenges — layoffs, rightsizing and recessions — but few of us were alive to experience the prevailing effects of The Great Depression of the 1930’s.

    During this time, jobs did not simply become scarce, they just vanished. Banks collapsed. Manufacturing stopped. Crop prices were cut in half and virtually overnight the country changed and remained changed for nearly a  decade.

    Imagine what happens when a country of men wake up and in spite of their best intensions and efforts, they can no longer take care of themselves or their families. Over time, the strain broke many of these men — because underneath subsistence is survival but underneath survival is hopelessness.

    Very few of us know what it’s like to live in a world when money was not simply hard to come by, but for many American’s it just didn’t exist any longer. Bartering became a common method of commerce and many people simply worked for food and shelter.

    Ironically, the group of people that faired the best during this time was the  American farmer — those located outside of the dustbowl Midwest. Even with low crop and meat prices, the American farmer had enough food for his family as well as had goods to trade with.

    With these farms surviving, migratory workers would travel and seek out the seasonal seeding and harvest work available. This was fueled by the fact that with homes being foreclosed on and with little cash for rent, there were more people living a transitory lifestyle then ever before — moving from town to town seeking what work could be found.

    Now, the most colorful group of travelling men during this time was the American Hobo. The term hobo is believed to come from the phrase ho-boy, referring to the great groups of farm and field workers that competed for migratory work. These men would travel light and stay on the move — often by sneaking aboard freight trains — looking for work, a meal and if possible a little adventure.

    The modern term hobo is often used when referring to anyone homeless but this is not accurate.

    Remember …

    A hobo is someone that travels looking for work.

    A tramp is someone that travels but does not work.

    And a bum neither travels nor works.

    The general philosophy of the hobo — and of many American’s during The Great Depression — was simple: waste nothing, throw little away and make do with what you can find.  And from this, the hobo stove was born.

    Now, there is no evidence that the hobo stove was actually created during the 1930’s. It’s such a simple design — made simply from old cans — and a stove similar to it was used in World War I. But it was commonly used during this period and often associated with it.

    A hobo stove is a simple stove made from discarded food cans — a coffee can is often used but you can build the stove with larger or smaller cans — that allows air to ventilate it and an area to feed fuel in. These stoves are cheap, easy to make, relatively efficient and can be burned at no cost because they burn sticks, pine cones, wood scraps, cardboard, pretty much anything you find along the way. And because they burn pretty much anything, you will never run out of fuel.

    In the modern world, Hobo Stoves are great little devices to have. They can be used during power outages, as a camping stove, while hiking or backpacking, to distill water in or as part of a survival kit.

    Now there are many designs to a hobo stove, but here is a real simple one — and remember, they don’t need to be too pretty they just need to work.

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    HOW TO BUILD A HOBO STOVE:

    1. Find a base can for your stove and a slightly smaller top can. You can make this stove as large or as small as you want. I wanted to build a light backpacking stove here, so I used a spaghetti sauce can for the base and a dog food can for the top, but I’ve seen these stoves made out of large #10 food cans for those wanting full sized camp stove.

    2. With a ‘church key’ style can opener, place some holes along the bottom base can. These are to draw air in and up through the stove — it’s important to have some space between holes though so you have stability at the base of the can.

    3.  With a nail, punch some holes in the side of the can, center, for ventilation, as well as four additional holes  — an inch from the top — for the support pins. The small holes in the center will add some additional ventilation and the four peg holes need to be directly across from each other as the pegs that will support the top half will rest on it. Make sure the holes are equal distance across, as you want this stove to be as stable as possible so the pot on top of it is centered.

    4. Place two pins across the can for support of the top can. Metal tent poles work great for this and you can even use coat hangers but you’ll need to find the thicker, heavy coat hangers to use. A standard coat hanger will be too thin and not work here. Remember, this is where the top can, the pot and a few cups of water will be supported. The ones I used metal from a metal bathroom shelf that I rescued from the trash. I cut off a few tent pole sized pieces, straightened them and bent the edges down.

    5. Cut the bottom out of the top-can so it becomes a metal tube. You can try to use a can opener on some cans but this one had a rounded edge so I just poked a hole in it and then used tin snips. Bend the sharp edges in with pliers.

    6. Cut a “V” shaped section out of the top can. This will be used to feed the fuel down into the stove as well as allow the opposite side of the can to become a wind screen. Bend any sharp edges back with pliers.

    7. Set the top-can down into the bottom-can until it rests on the pins. You want your pins to be across parallel with each other not making an X. Although by crossing them might be more stable, you will be placing fuel down past the pins and don’t want anything to get hung up.

    8. Find the pot you will be using. This should really be done earlier in the process, then you can identify the size stove you want based on the pot you will be using — as well as the place it will be stored. But I got lucky here and found this great little coffee pot in my basement — it had a small pinhole in the side that I patched with some J-B Weld and it worked great. The size of the pot was small enough but the right size so the entire stove fit perfectly inside of it — even allowing room for my silverware, fire starters, and other items to be stores. It’s difficult to tell in these photos, but this pot is very compact and is only 6” high. The perfect size for a small backpacking stove.

    9. Cover stove and pot with high temperature spray-paint. You don’t have to take this step, but by covering both the stove and the pot you are not only protecting it but making it more difficult for the tars and oils from the fire to build up on the surfaces. High temperature spray paint can be found in any hardware store.

    Test your gear. If you need to make modifications it’s easier to do this at home. Try the stove at least once before using it in the field and anything you don’t like, just change and tweak until you have it exactly the way you want it.

    I tried this stove and I had water boiling in about four minutes — using just a handful of twigs and leaves from my backyard as fuel. Total cost ended up being zero because I recycled the cans and pegs and found the coffee pot in my basement.

    Remember: keep the design of the stove simple as you don’t need a device to simmer a five hour brisket in. These stoves were designed to quickly cook a few  stolen eggs before breaking down camp and catching the next freight out of town.

     

    BIG ROCK CANDY MOUNTAIN

    First recorded by Harry McClintock.

    1928

    The Hobo Theme song.

    One evening as the sun went down
    And the jungle fires were burning,
    Down the track came a hobo hiking,
    And he said, “Boys, I’m not turning
    I’m headed for a land that’s far away
    Besides the crystal fountains
    So come with me, we’ll go and see
    The Big Rock Candy Mountains

    In the Big Rock Candy Mountains,
    There’s a land that’s fair and bright,
    Where the handouts grow on bushes
    And you sleep out every night.
    Where the boxcars all are empty
    And the sun shines every day
    And the birds and the bees
    And the cigarette trees
    The lemonade springs
    Where the bluebird sings
    In the Big Rock Candy Mountains.

    In the Big Rock Candy Mountains
    All the cops have wooden legs
    And the bulldogs all have rubber teeth
    And the hens lay soft-boiled eggs
    The farmers’ trees are full of fruit
    And the barns are full of hay
    Oh I’m bound to go
    Where there ain’t no snow
    Where the rain don’t fall
    The winds don’t blow
    In the Big Rock Candy Mountains.

    In the Big Rock Candy Mountains
    You never change your socks
    And the little streams of alcohol
    Come trickling down the rocks
    The brakemen have to tip their hats
    And the railway bulls are blind
    There’s a lake of stew
    And of whiskey too
    You can paddle all around it
    In a big canoe
    In the Big Rock Candy Mountains

    In the Big Rock Candy Mountains,
    The jails are made of tin.
    And you can walk right out again,
    As soon as you are in.
    There ain’t no short-handled shovels,
    No axes, saws nor picks,
    I’m bound to stay
    Where you sleep all day,
    Where they hung the jerk
    That invented work
    In the Big Rock Candy Mountains.

     

  • How to change a tire

    How to change a tire

    tire

    In 2011 US News reviewed a study performed by AutoMD that looked at trends of new drivers. One of the most interesting discoveries the study uncovered was that two-thirds — over sixty percent — of all new drivers from the age of 16 to 19 could not change a flat tire.

    In fact, the study went on to state that the same percentage — over sixty percent — of these teen drivers were also unable to jumpstart a dead battery or even check their oil. This means two thirds of us starting out in our driving careers are incapable of performing the most rudimentary maintenance tasks or make basic field repairs on our vehicles.

    Now this is not a truly shocking statistic — younger drivers aren’t as experienced as more seasoned ones. So what? Younger drivers just need road experience to be able to develop skills such as changing a tire. But add that to my own personal study of the four dozen or so of men that I have stopped to help change tires over my life. Half of them were older than me and they still had no idea on how to change a tire.

    Now it’s understandable. A skill such as changing a tire isn’t one you can really practice. And in theory, if we replace our tires when they are worn and never hit a bottle or a nail or never go hard over a curb, it’s possible that we could never need to change a tire.

    It’s always possible.

    But why take a chance? If you know the basics, then you can actually be able to change a tire without having to yank a tire off your car and practice a few times. If you understand the process, you’ll be ready when it comes time to act on that knowledge.

    HOW TO CHANGE A TIRE.

    Get to a flat place or a safe place that will allow you to work on the tire. If you have to change a tire alongside a busy highway, this may be difficult. It’s important to get your car as far away from traffic as possible — to a place that will allow you the space to jack up the car and work on it SAFELY. Pull over or even ride the car on the rim if you need to until you find a place that’s safe. I’ve seen guys on the side of the road trying to change a tire with their legs spread halfway into the road. The cost of a tow or a new wheel is a steal, compared to the cost of your life. If it doesn’t feel safe, don’t do it. Call a tow truck.

    Put the parking brake on. With an automatic transmission, put the parking brake on and leave it in park. If you have a manual transmission, put the parking break on and leave the car in reverse as an extra precaution. You can also slide something under the front and back tires to prevent it from rolling.

    Locate the spare tire. This may not be as easy as it seems. At one time spare tires were in the trunk. Period. But many cars such as hatchbacks and mini vans don’t have trunks. In those cases, the spare tires are often mounted under the carpeting of the back, or under the car itself with a release under the mat in the car. When in doubt consult the car’s manual. When you do find the spare don’t be surprised if it is an emergency spare or donut — a small spare tire that is meant to get you to a garage and is only meant to be used for a limited amount of miles. With the exception of large SUV’s and trucks, few cars come equipped with a full sized spare tire.

    Locate the tools. When you find the tire, you will most likely find a scissor jack and tire iron as well. If not, many cars have side compartments where the tools are kept.

    Loosen the lug nuts. Many people think you jack the car off the ground and then start loosening the lug nuts. Nope. By doing that not only are the lugs harder to loosen, but the shaking and moving of the car could make it unstable. Get the lug nuts loose — or what they call breaking the seal — and then jack the car up. And don’t be tricked by those fancy wheel covers that look like lug nuts. Check to see if there is a hubcap to be removed first.

    Jack the car up. This may seem intimidating at first, but it’s not. Get the jack under the frame near the tire that has to be changed. Most frames will have a slot cut into them next to each tire where the top of the jack will fit perfectly. Place the jack directly under that notch and twist the lever to start opening the jack. Most scissor jacks allow you to insert the tire iron into a slot to be used as a handle. Start cranking. And remember, you don’t need the car six feet off the ground. Getting the tire a few inches off the ground is often enough. You can always adjust once you get the old tire off.

    Remove the lug nuts. Use the tire iron and remove the nuts and set aside.

    Remove the old tire.

    Replace with spare tire. Once the spare is on, place lug nuts back on and hand tighten. Then you want to lower the car slightly so the spare is just touching the ground. This will allow you to tighten the lug nuts without the tire spinning.

    Tighten the lug nuts. You’ll want to tighten the lug nuts in star pattern. Tighten one slightly, then go to the one directly across from it. Repeat. Then the one next to that, then to the one across from that. Don’t tighten one lug nut completely and then go to the next, otherwise they will be tightened unevenly and the tire will wobble — or even come off while driving. .

    Drive the car to a shop and get a new tire put on.

    Voilla.

    http://www.usnews.com/education/blogs/high-school-notes/2011/09/19/two-thirds-of-teen-drivers-dont-know-basic-auto-repair